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Published: July 13, 2005 TAMPA The owners of Black Beans Cuban Bar & Grill went to great lengths to distinguish their restaurant from its predecessor, which also happened to be a Cuban restaurant. “We went in looking to do a small remodel,” said manager Henry Carvajal. “We wound up doing a full remodel to get the look we wanted.” The look is vintage Havana, with terra cotta-colored walls and brick pavers adorned with rum barrels and Cuban art. Comfortable booths line one wall; plenty of cherry wood and columns give the restaurant a stylish feel. We were greeted with warm smiles and waitresses in white guayaberas who were eager to please. While perusing the menu, we expected a basket of hot-buttered Cuban bread to arrive at our table, as is typical in most Cuban restaurants. Instead, we got a cone-shaped basket filled with thin, fried plantain slices accompanied by a smooth and garlicky black bean puree. A tasty surprise. We launched into the Black Beans Cake, which alluded both to the restaurant’s name and the Cuban staple. These melt-in-your-mouth discs were golden-fried and filled with warm black bean puree accented with cheese and spices. The Camarones Habanero, fried shrimp wrapped with bacon, also were a hit. Fresh diced mango complemented the rich smoky flavor of the shrimp and bacon. Equally tasty were the tamales Cubanos, similar to Mexican tamales but creamier. The filling, which tasted like corn pudding, held tender pork nuggets. After such great starters we were quite excited about the main courses. The Cerdo Clasico, often referred to as Lechon Asado, is pork marinated in mojo — a combination of sour oranges, garlic, oregano and onions — then slow-cooked several hours. When properly prepared, the meat turns into fork-tender shreds. While we found ours to be generally moist, there were some dry pockets that could have used more marinating. The Pollo a la Milanesa consisted of a breaded chicken breast topped with an uninspiring tomato sauce and melted Parmesan cheese. One Thursday special — ropa vieja — was much more palatable. It featured shredded skirt steak accented with onions, peppers and a touch of tomato sauce, which allowed the spices of the meat to shine through. The paella, a traditional dish of yellow rice, pork, chicken and seafood including shrimp, mussels, scallops and clams, arrived steaming hot. While we found the rice flavorful, it was somewhat sticky. And this paella didn’t have the usual saffron-tinged hue; it had a black tint we didn’t find appealing. Entrees are served with typical Cuban sides such as yuca (cassava) with mojo, tostones (green fried plantains) and black beans. These black beans are prepared traditionally, with hints of cumin, oregano and garlic. Time-honored, as well, was a dessert of flan, a custard served with a drizzle of caramel. It was firm, creamy and delicious. A bevy of musicians entertains in the evenings; a VIP section on the second-floor accommodates large fiestas. Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Cloe Cabrera can be reached at (813) 259-7656. CRITIC’S RATING: Food: B-; Service: B RESERVATIONS: Yes CHILDREN’S MENU: Yes |